Sugar Cookie Body Oil Recipe
Learn how to make a luxurious sugar cookie-scented body oil naturally fragranced with essential oils and natural perfumery ingredients. This rich, silky body oil captures the delicious aroma of freshly baked sugar cookies without synthetic fragrance.
Servings: 100 g
Equipment
- 2 large large glass lab beakers
- 1 smaller beaker for measuring
- Shallow saucepan (to fill with a couple inches of water)
- Heat-proof mixing utensil (such as a silicone spatula)
- Wood cutting board (to chop cocoa butter)
- 100ml glass pump bottle for storage
Ingredients
Body Oil Base
- 70 g caprylic/capric triglycerides (MCT Oil) or fractionated coconut oil
- 20 g raw cocoa butter
- 5 g sumac berry wax pastilles or Cera Bellina wax – see notes
- 1 g vitamin E oil
Sugar Cookie Perfume Blend
- 2 g butter CO2 extract
- 1 g solid tonka bean absolute see notes
- 1 g vanilla absolute
- 4 drops bitter almond essential oil or benzaldehyde
- 2 drops sweet orange essential oil
- 1 drop cassia essential oil
Instructions
- Weigh Tonka: Weigh solid tonka bean absolute into a large (at least 100 ml) heat-safe beaker.
- Weigh Oil & Wax: In a second large beaker (or measuring cup), measure the full amount of MCT oil required for the recipe. In a small container, weigh the sumac berry wax (or Cera Bellina wax) and the raw cocoa butter. Set aside.
- Add Oil: Pour a small amount of the measured MCT oil into the beaker containing the tonka bean absolute. (Note: There's no need to measure this amount precisely. The goal is simply to dissolve the tonka bean absolute in a small amount of oil before adding the remainder later.)
- Melt Tonka: Place the beaker containing the tonka bean mixture into a shallow pan filled with enough water to heat the beaker. Heat over medium heat until the absolute is completely melted and the mixture is smooth and free of lumps, stirring occasionally to encourage even melting and prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the beaker.
- Add Remaining Oil: Once the mixture is liquefied, add the rest of the MCT oil. Heat just until the mixture is evenly warmed before continuing.
- Melt Cocoa Butter & Wax: Turn the heat to low and add the cocoa butter and sumac wax. (These ingredients have a much lower melting point.) Heat until the cocoa butter and wax melt and the mixture is completely clear.
- Cool Mixture: Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool for about 5 minutes before adding the more heat-sensitive ingredients.
- Add Vanilla: After 5 minutes, add the vanilla absolute and mix well. Wait another 5 minutes for the oil to cool further before continuing.
- Finish Fragrance: Finally, stir in the vitamin E oil along with the remaining fragrance ingredients: butter COâ‚‚ extract, sweet orange oil, bitter almond oil, and cassia oil.
- Bottle Oil: Transfer the sugar cookie body oil to a glass pump bottle for use. It will thicken as it cools to a silky, viscous oil that leaves skin feeling deeply moisturized. It's ready to use immediately, but as with any perfume, its full fragrance will develop over time as the aroma compounds meld and mature.
- Apply & Layer: For best results, apply to clean, damp skin immediately after showering to lock in moisture. You can also layer it with a natural body mist or perfume for an even longer-lasting fragrance, making it perfect for scent stacking.
Notes
- Yield & Storage: This recipe yields 100g of scented body oil. Store in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight. For the freshest fragrance, I recommend using it within about one year.
- Glass Bottles: Since oils can leach endocrine-disrupting compounds from plastic packaging over time, I personally prefer MCT oil and fractionated coconut oil packaged in glass whenever possible. For the same reason, and to help preserve the integrity of the fragrance, I also recommend storing the finished perfume oil in a glass pump bottle.
- Essential Oils: The sweet orange and cassia oils are used in tiny amounts, but they add noticeable depth to the fragrance, while sweet orange contributes an extra touch of sweetness. I personally like Simply Earth oils for their purity and ethical sourcing.
- Sumac Wax Substitution: Sumac wax is also known as Rhus wax, Japan berry wax, or vegetable tallow. While it's worth the investment for luxurious homemade skincare, it can be hard to procure. You can substitute the more readily available Cera Bellina wax pastilles, which work well in this recipe but produce a slightly heavier, richer finish instead of the lightweight, silky dry-touch feel that makes sumac wax so special. If you are fortunate enough to find sumac wax, please ensure it's cosmetic grade, not candle wax. At the time of writing, H&B Oils was the only supplier I was able to find. If using Cera Bellina wax, note that it has a higher melting point than sumac berry wax. Add it during step 5, at the same time as the remainder of the oil.
- Tonka Bean Absolute: Tonka bean absolute is solid at room temperature, so you may need to place your bottle in a bowl of warm water to soften the paste before use. A metal skincare spoon or lab scoop works well for scraping it out. I personally use solid tonka bean absolute from Eden Botanicals. Specialty perfumery suppliers are your best bet, but you may also be able to find it from artisan sellers on Etsy – just make sure you're purchasing pure absolute and not a dilution or synthetic fragrance oil.
- Bitter Almond Oil: Bitter almond oil for cosmetics and perfumery has been "rectified" to remove toxic prussic acid. Be sure to purchase from a reputable source and ensure it's labelled for cosmetic use. It may also be sold simply as benzaldehyde, the aroma compound responsible for bitter almond's characteristic marzipan cookie fragrance. Perfumery suppliers are the easiest source, but some small businesses carry it as well.